Roper

Now and again I like to grab a random mini and just paint it. I generally go for a figure I could use in a D&D game.  This stone lurker (Roper) sculpted by Bob Olley has been a favorite of mine and fits the style of D&D games I like. Weird.

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General T. Clancy

I painted this mini up for a Street Fighter RPG game this summer. This is a character I’ve played since SF was originally released.  Clancy is a lunitic who believes aliens are real and they gave him powers best used in street fights. What a nutter.

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D&D Wizard

I’m playing a Wizard in an up-coming D&D  Curse of Strahd campaign. This figure is from the Dark Sword range. I really like this range cause the figures are based off of art from original D&D artists.

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Dark Sword mini

Elmorewizard

Elmore art

Chaos D&D Adventurer

I painted this guy up for two reasons. To play in J’s D&D campaign and an opportunity to paint a classic figure. As I painted this figure I found myself plotting and planning out an old school chaos warband…

Wrack

My first session & first encounter, Wrack (my character) was struck down by a Owlbear. He was quickly revived and stood up to club the Owlbear to death with his mighty warhammer. Wrack then found a flaming long sword +1. This lead to a huge dilemma; do I pass on the weapon, do I paint up a new figure, or convert my classic fig to have a flaming sword? I chose none of the above. I called up my buddy Andrew and had him apply his amazing photo-shop skills. Below is his amazing results.

wrack blight flaming sword

Model: Citadel (maybe Marauder) OOP

 

The Olive Oil Fix

When I seal my models I double coat them for best protection. I first use a gloss coat, which gives the best protection. Then I use Testors Dullcoat to take away the shine. Dull coat does not protect as well as the gloss, so therefore I always gloss first. Recently I finished a batch of miniatures (including the cops below), then coated them using my method. When I got the miniatures inside they were still too shiny. So I used the citadel paint on mat medium to dull them down so I would not have to go back outside to dull coat again. Having never used the citadel mat before, I did one test fig. It worked out well, but a bit too dull. So I decided to coat the rest of the miniatures (about a dozen) but this time I added a bit of water to the citadel mat to make it go on easier and counter the effects of if coating to dull.  Adding water is where I went wrong. After an hour of drying the miniatures had a white chalky residue in the cracks. I tried removing the residue with a dry brush, to no effect. Frustrated a decided to stop and have a “think” on the situation. The next day at work I was receiving entries for our shop’s paint contest, when a customer commented he had the same problem the night before with his entry. He recommended olive oil. I thought this bizarre, but with no better solution I thought I’d give it a try. It worked! I lightly brushed on a bit of olive oil, then after 3-4 mins brushed it off with a large brush and a generous amount of water. So I’m still left with some shinny figs but I’m done messing around with this batch and have decided to leave them as is.

These cops I plan to use in a future Call of Cthulhu RPG.

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Mini: Copplestone Casting

Ready For Adventure

A few more adventurers painted up from my favorite line of minis; Otherword Miniatures.

Otherworld has fantastic sets of figs that come with a figure case with slotted foam. The miniatures also come with sculpted bases and bits of velvet to place under their base. These figs are from the “Male humanoid” set.

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In a future post I’ll explain why these figs are a bit shiny.

Mini: Otherworld